Saturday, May 4, 2024

Utah National Parks – Canyonlands, Island in the Sky and The Arches – Part 2

The next morning, we decided to get up very early and drive to the furthest point in Arches in time to watch the sunrise.  After sunrise we had a lovely breakfast out of the back of our car.

Then we headed off on the amazing Devils Garden Trail.  Perhaps the next best hike after Chessel Park in The Needles.  It was a strenuous half day hike involving quite a bit of climbing, rock hopping and walking along rock spines.  We passed half a dozen superb arches along the way.  The best of which was the Partition Arch.  It was perhaps not the most spectacular arch per se, but it beautifully framed a view of the landscape.

Landscape Arch


 
Partition Arch

Partition Arch

Navajo Arch

Navajo Arch



Double O Arch

Double O Arch

Not an arch!  Dark Angel

We returned by the Primitive Trail, which, as the name suggests, was not very well marked.  This took us past Private Arch, which we also liked a lot.  After Private Arch, we and a couple of other groups spent quite a bit of time together searching for the path at various points.  The MAPS.ME app has certainly proved valuable in these situations.

Private Arch


Private Arch - with a faint moon


How is this tree alive with its roots so exposed in the desert?


Pine Tree Arch

Tunnel Arch

After lunch we hiked up to Delicate Arch, which is the most photographed arch in the park.  This involved a huge climb (in distance and height), which was worth the effort because Delicate Arch is magnificent, ruined only be the multitude of people lining up to have their photograph taken beneath it.

Delicate Arch

Insta People

We had booked a commercial campground on the main highway out of Moab that was opposite the long road out to Island in the Sky and only a few minutes from the entrance to Arches, as it was not possible to pre-book a camping site in Island in the Sky and there were limited options in Arches.  We thought it would also be nice to be able to have a shower for a couple of days and do some laundry.  

Unfortunately, the campground was next to the highway and our site was as close as you could get to the highway.  It was awful.  The noise just never abated and on the second night we and many others were jolted awake by a violent bang that our trail bike riding neighbours identified as a truck tyre blowing.  In the moment we thought that we were about to be killed by a runaway road train or some part thereof.  We’d booked for three nights but could only tolerate two.  


So, on our third day we decided to go back to Island in the Sky and then to leave the campground in the afternoon and move on to a campground that we had found nearby to Capitol Reef, the next National Park that we would be visiting.

We were inside Island in the Sky before dawn and were in place at Shafer Canyon Overlook for sunrise.  


 

Sunrise was a bit of a disappointment but we returned later in the day for some wonderful photos.  While waiting for sunrise we chatted to a semi-retired couple who live on the Navajo Nation Reservation near Flagstaff.  The woman is a dentist, employed by the Navajo Nation two days a week to carry out root canals.  They were originally from Chicago but have semi-retired to the south west to help the people of the Navajo Nation and to explore the delights of the south west of the USA. 

After breakfast we visited Mesa Arch, the most visited arch in Canyonlands.  The morning sunlight falling on the Arch was awesome.

Mesa Arch


 

We did shortish hikes to the Dome Overlook and Aztec Butte.

The Dome Overlook afforded excellent views of the north western canyons. 


Aztec Butte involved a very steep climb (and descent) up to a plateau with lovely views as well as another nearby formation used by American Indians to store grain.  Amazing to think that they hiked up here in rudimentary sandals, loaded with grain.

Aztec Butte

 




Storage rooms obscured under overhanging rocks

A quick stop for daytime photos at Shafer Canyon Overlook.


 

After lunch in Moab, and stocking up on more provisions, we packed up our tent and drove across to a town called Torrey, which is next door to Capitol Reef National Park, and where we found a lovely quiet private camping ground for one night.

The next day we had a quiet day briefly exploring Torrey and settling in to the camping ground at Capitol Reef, including having a lengthy discussion with a volunteer ranger about potential walks.

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