The next morning, we decided to get up very early and drive to
the furthest point in Arches in time to watch the sunrise. After sunrise we had a lovely breakfast out
of the back of our car.
Then we headed off on the amazing Devils Garden Trail. Perhaps the next best hike after Chessel Park
in The Needles. It was a strenuous half
day hike involving quite a bit of climbing, rock hopping and walking along rock
spines. We passed half a dozen superb
arches along the way. The best of which
was the Partition Arch. It was perhaps
not the most spectacular arch per se, but it beautifully framed a view of the
landscape. 
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Landscape Arch
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Partition Arch
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| Partition Arch |
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Navajo Arch
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| Navajo Arch |
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Double O Arch
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| Double O Arch |
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Not an arch! Dark Angel
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We returned by the Primitive Trail, which, as the name
suggests, was not very well marked. This
took us past Private Arch, which we also liked a lot. After Private Arch, we and a couple of other
groups spent quite a bit of time together searching for the path at various
points. The MAPS.ME app has certainly
proved valuable in these situations.
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Private Arch
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Private Arch - with a faint moon
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How is this tree alive with its roots so exposed in the desert?
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Pine Tree Arch
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Tunnel Arch
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After lunch we hiked up to Delicate Arch, which is the most
photographed arch in the park. This
involved a huge climb (in distance and height), which was worth the effort
because Delicate Arch is magnificent, ruined only be the multitude of people
lining up to have their photograph taken beneath it.
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Delicate Arch
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Insta People
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We had booked a commercial campground on the main highway out
of Moab that was opposite the long road out to Island in the Sky and only a few
minutes from the entrance to Arches, as it was not possible to pre-book a
camping site in Island in the Sky and there were limited options in
Arches. We thought it would also be nice
to be able to have a shower for a couple of days and do some laundry.
Unfortunately, the campground was next to the
highway and our site was as close as you could get to the highway. It was awful.
The noise just never abated and on the second night we and many others
were jolted awake by a violent bang that our trail bike riding neighbours
identified as a truck tyre blowing. In
the moment we thought that we were about to be killed by a runaway road train
or some part thereof. We’d booked for
three nights but could only tolerate two.
So, on our third day we decided to go back to Island in the
Sky and then to leave the campground in the afternoon and move on to a
campground that we had found nearby to Capitol Reef, the
next National Park that we would be visiting.
We were inside Island in the Sky before dawn and were in
place at Shafer Canyon Overlook for sunrise.
Sunrise was a bit of a disappointment but we returned later
in the day for some wonderful photos.
While waiting for sunrise we chatted to a semi-retired couple who live
on the Navajo Nation Reservation near Flagstaff. The woman is a dentist, employed by the
Navajo Nation two days a week to carry out root canals. They were originally from Chicago but have
semi-retired to the south west to help the people of the Navajo Nation and to
explore the delights of the south west of the USA.
After breakfast we visited Mesa Arch, the most visited arch
in Canyonlands. The morning sunlight
falling on the Arch was awesome.
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Mesa Arch
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We did shortish hikes to the Dome Overlook and Aztec Butte.
The Dome Overlook afforded excellent views of the north
western canyons.
Aztec Butte involved a very steep climb (and descent) up to
a plateau with lovely views as well as another nearby formation used by
American Indians to store grain. Amazing
to think that they hiked up here in rudimentary sandals, loaded with grain.
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Aztec Butte
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Storage rooms obscured under overhanging rocks
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A quick stop for daytime photos at Shafer Canyon Overlook.
After lunch in Moab, and stocking up on more provisions, we packed
up our tent and drove across to a town called Torrey, which is next door to
Capitol Reef National Park, and where we found a lovely quiet private camping
ground for one night.
The next day we had a quiet day briefly exploring Torrey and
settling in to the camping ground at Capitol Reef, including having a lengthy
discussion with a volunteer ranger about potential walks.
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